The Never Ending Journey...

Continued...


...and so my 27 hour bus journey from El Calafate to San Carlos de Bariloche began in a semi cama (normal chair that reclines). The first six hours flew by, through a mixture of watching numerous films and time spent gazing at the stunning but very bleak scenery, which incidentally did not change for the entire journey to Bariloche. 

stunning but bleak...

more bleak...

bit of rain in the horizon

miles and miles of empty road...

stunning sunset : D

There were five of us travelling on the double decker bus which we all found bizarre considering the company who we had bought the ticket from said that the coach was almost full?! Typical ploy to get you to book your ticket in fear of not being able to later on when then coach is ´full´!


I couldn't really sleep during the first part of the journey as there really wasn't much legroom even for my Shetland pony legs. The air con Im learning is always permanently on during overnight buses so I was absolutely freezing. To combat the cold I ended up wearing every item of clothing I had with me which made me look like a hoodie bandit.


At two points in the journey the second driver (they drive in pairs) veered off the road -  you could feel the change from smooth tarmac to rough gravel side road which was quite terrifying. If it is like this now then Im certainly not looking forward to Bolivia where the infrastructure is meant to be even worse...


Finally we got to Caleta Olivia which was the half way point where I had to wait an hour for my next coach to Bariloche. 


Arriving in the bus terminal at 4am, it soon became clear I was the only gringo there. I made myself a makeshift bed (gracias mamá for my travel pillow!) on a bench and proceeded to catch up on the sleep Id lacked on the bus. Somehow I managed to wake just as the bus pulled into the station *phew*.


The new coach with cama (bed) seating was a revelation. Seriously this is how long distances should be covered. They are so much comfier and there is way more leg room. I inevitably slept like a baby for the rest of the journey - well until we stopped at a gas station as one of the tyres had to be pumped again as it had gone flat.  I took this opportunity to stretch my legs and then popped to the bus toilet on my way back in. My, my, what a difference a few more people on a bus make! The toilet was certainly not like the one we hadd been fortunate to have on the previous bus. The toilet paper appeared to be scrunched up in the holder which I found odd, until I realised that the bin was full and people had started to use the toilet role holder as a bin...GROSS. Thank god for Carex travel antiseptic gel is all I can say. 


Nearing Bariloche, the scenery began to change and we saw mountains and pine forests along with a huge lake which reminded me of the journey to Val D´Isere Ski resort. This was great as it meant a welcome distraction from the film Saw VI (gruesome horror film)which the bus had decided to show - what were they thinking?!

Finally we arrived at San Carlos de Bariloche and I have to say the epic journey was worth it. The weather was spot on and it felt as though we had arrived in a Swiss ski resort. 

My hostel was in a tower block on the 10th floor, and upon exiting the service lift (you aren't allowed to use the standard lift with your backpack) I walked down a long eerie corridor to my hostel Penthouse 1004 where the door was opened and suddenly it was all cosy and welcoming and there were the most amazing views overlooking the Nahuel Huapi lake. 

I ate yet more steak that evening at the famous El Boliche de Alberto parilla, (Im going to have to take some time out from the red meat soon...) and then ate some local choccies for desert (Bariloche IS Argentina´s chocolate capital).


The next day I did a horse trek which was great. After eating a tasty asado we were all shown to the horse which initially petrified us all as they were massive! However, after getting saddled up we soon got into the Gaucho way and were off. My horse was called Duerte and was a black beauty with the most amazing shiny mane which I was quite envious of!

I want his glossy mane!!

Apart from the constant swarm of flies and Duerte whipping me a few times with his tail, the ride was pretty smooth. 


The scenery was, once again, stunning, crossing through forests, rivers and the most beautiful lake which Duerte must have known I wanted to swim in as he took it upon himself to wade in ensuring I was soaked in the process!

Jose, our guide

The lake which Duerte and I went for a ´swim´...

Randomly one of the girls I met in our group went to the same college as me back home albeit at a different time! small world.


The next day I caught the bus to Cerro Campanario which is one of the hills in the area that has a chair lift which you can catch to the top. Id definitely recommend this as the view from the peak is absolutely breath taking.

On my final day I decided that a cycle ride around the Circuito pequeño (small circuit) which takes in Moreno Lake, Llao Llao Hotel (some of you, like me may find the name of this hotel familiar!) and Punto Panorámico would be a good idea. On reflection it was a bit mad as it was 35 degrees and I hadn't anticipated how far I would be cycling...around 30 miles which for a non cyclist like me is no mean feat!

After much cursing, sweating and general exasperation by the flies and giant mossies which kept swarming around my head throughout the entire journey, I finished the circuit and collapsed in sheer exhaustion. Albeit elated that I had completed it. : D

It was finally time to leave my new amour Bariloche (Apologies Palermo district in Buenos Aires, but Im having a love affair with Bariloche now...) 

I shall not forget Penthouse 1004 hostel and it certainly shall not forget me, given that upon exiting, my backpack managed to catch my skirt, thus making it ride up and exposing my derrière to the entire hostel! I did wonder why people were sniggering as I walked past...