Wednesday, 6 June 2012

Fruity Frogs


Granada (that's the Nicaraguan city not the UK's regional Northern television company that produces Coronation Street) had been good to us, so much so that I was really looking forward to visiting my next destination in Nicaragua -  León.


My journey there took me via the market town of Masaya and the capital city Managua. Masaya was certainly worth stopping in to look around its famous old market (the new one isnt as good apparently). I cant say it was worth stopping in Managua as Id be lying. The city is ugly and sprawling and doesnt really have a city centre as this was destroyed in an earthquake some years ago. As a result they have focused on building up the surrounding areas with ugly shopping malls and fast food restaurants. So much so you feel like you could be anywhere in the world and the only way to get around is being driven by a kamikazi taxi driver. Ive decided the driving in Central America is getting worse the further North I head...


The old market in Masaya was massive and in true fashion I got lost wandering around all the aisles of stalls which looked exactly the same as each other. During my aimless walking I came across a stall which sold locally made leather sandals. After putting the poor sales assistant to work finding my shoe size and putting up with my ever changing mind whilst trying numerous pairs on I finally settled on a pair of green gladiator sandals made of leather. I would have liked to have bought them cheaper but the owner didnt appear to understand the term barter. It would seem in Nicaragua they dont like to negotiate on the price. Of anything. 


One item I saw at the market which made me smirk was a frog made out of leather. It was so detailed it looked real. I couldnt figure out why it looked so familiar until I realised my aunt and uncle have the same one in their home. I think my uncle must have picked it whilst he was working in Central America. It would appear that since he bought his, the frog has progressed from its sitting stance into various dubious sexual positions. All of which I can only imagine would take some explaining in customs should you purchase one and take it home. Alas the stall holder wouldn't let me take any pictures so you´ll have to use your imagination to visualise the froggy figurines!


Arriving in León was sadly a little underwhelming. Having thought so much of Granada I was expecting  León to look the same. Except it didn't. It wasnt any where near as pretty. There were a few nice churches but it didn't have the same Colonial feel that Granada had. 
Pretty in pink
Mellow yellow
Thunderstorm about to commence
I think the most imposing building in the city is the Cathedral which apparently is the biggest in Central America. Its actually very pretty inside and you can climb up onto the roof to admire the views of the city. What I wasn't told, rather I overheard a guide telling his tour group, was that you´re not supposed to walk on the domes of the roof as they're not strong enough to hold that much weight. Apparently a Danish family stood on one and fell straight through a few years earlier! Nice to see they have taken precautionary measures to avoid this happening again. Not.
The Cathedral 
The Cathedral roof - don't step on the dome!
Inside the Cathedral
When it came to my favourite pastime, eating and drinking, I was a little disappointed to say the least. There was a distinct lack of places to eat and drink. On one hand this meant that the city was more local so you felt like you were gaining more of a sense of Nicaraguan life. However on the other hand they were clearly missing a trick as tourists flock here so why have they not realised this and opened more decent places to cater for this? I did manage to find a French bakery called Pan & Paz which served tasty sandwiches and homemade juices but I think this was the extent of the ex pat influence. I think the British restaurant chain Leon needs to open a branch in its namesake city...


Weather wise it was humid with a capital H. I would have a shower and then within five minutes feel the need to have another one. How does anyone aclimatise to this weather? Locals were walking around wearing skinny jeans - SKINNY JEANS - in hot humid heat?!


In an attempt to cool myself down I caught a local bus to Las Peñitas beach which was about twenty minutes drive away. The beach was deserted, I think mainly due to the sea being so rough to swim in and it being too hot even there. Cheekily I snuck into a Best Western hotel and used their swimming pool which was just what the doctor ordered. I cooled down immediately. Making the most of the facilities there I chilled by the pool drinking an iced tea. After a few hours I realised that I was going to miss the last bus back to town if I didnt hurry. So in a rush I left without paying for my drink. I was sat on the bus pulling away from the hotel when suddenly I was tapped on the shoulder by one of the waiters who had run and jumped on the bus after me. The waiter was beetroot in colour from running and sweat was dripping down his forehead. I instantly felt bad for him as clearly running and him were distant friends. With no change on me I used a large note expecting some coins back but the cheeky man kept it all thinking it was a tip! I guess having run after me he wanted a reward.
Where is everybody?
Whilst in León, I tried some of the local Nicaraguan rum. I discovered a brand called Flor de Caña which is delicious. It comes in several blends and apparently it is the leading brand of rum in Central America. So if you enjoy a sip of ron as its called here then Id highly recommend it. 
Drink me
Before I arrived in León, one of my travel buddies Beccy had been volunteering at a local charity called La Isla Foundation. They are working with the Nicaraguan Ministry of Health and other institutions to fight the Chronic Kidney Disease epidemic which has been attacking many local farm workers. Id said I would pop in and see a wall mural in the La Isla Foundation office reception which Beccy had helped to create. Beccy - I had no idea you were quite the artist! Readers you can admire her handiwork here:
Marvellous

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