Tuesday, 21 August 2012

The Boat That Didn't Rock & Cabo San Sleazy

By the time the CHEPE train arrived back in Snotville A.K.A. Los Mochis it was already 10pm. I was having a massive stress as the ferry over to Baja California which was my next destination in Mexico, was scheduled to leave at 11pm. The minute the train came to a stop I leapt off and jumped into the nearest taxi I could find to take me to Topolopobampo (try saying that when you´re out of breath!) where the ferry departed from.

According to my taxi driver, Topolopobampo was roughly fifteen minutes away from Snotville. Great I thought, Ill make the ferry in time. Forty minutes later we were still driving and in true Latin American fashion, despite saying he knew where the ferry port was, the taxi driver still stopped to ask directions...

Thankfully I managed to make the ferry with minutes to spare, although I really shouldn't have bothered rushing as the queue to board the boat took forever - we even had to show our passports despite it not being an international journey?! 

Once on board I was given the choice of either sitting in the bar or restaurant seating area. I chose the restaurant thinking that given it was a night journey it would be quieter. Upon walking into the restaurant area I was greeted with normal dining chairs. I scanned the room for some lounge chairs but failed to spot any. After asking in reception where the lounge chairs were I was told quite matter of factly that the lounge chair was upstairs but that my ticket was just for the bar and restaurant area. I was not amused. This boat certainly did not rock in my mind. To cut a long story short I ended up finding a spot on the floor of the restaurant, made myself a little den barricaded with a table and chair and went to sleep. It seemed every one else was doing it so I thought I may as well join them. Surprisingly I did manage to get a few hours shut eye!

Finally we made it to La Paz in Baja (Badger as we nicknamed it) California Sur. That is after a eleven hour CHEPE train journey, manic break neck speed forty minute taxi ride and an eight hour ferry crossing. Lest not forgetting the thirty minute bus journey into the centre of La Paz & the time it took to get off the boat. To say I was exhausted would be an understatement. The sunset that evening made up for the horrible journey:

Its a stunner
La Paz is by the Gulf of Mexico which meant a boat trip to the nearby Isla Espiritu Santo was in order. The island is huge but no inhabitants live there, other than some long standing fisherman, as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

The Island
Our tour boat did a loop of the island where we saw various sights including a cave, a rock that resembled a mask and a plant that appeared to be growing out of the cliff face?!

Smaller island covered in bird poo 
This rock formation reminded me of the tree in Dali´s desert in Bolivia
citygirlwalkies
Our boat
Looking out from within the cave!
The Mask!
Freaky tree
Having seen the sights our boat then dropped us off to snorkel with sea lions! Initially I was rather apprehensive about getting in the water as: A, it was much colder than what I've been used to and B, I was worried that the sea lions would mistake me for one of them in the wet suit I had donned to warm up. I need not have worried as the wet suit made the water bearable and me buoyant. The sea lions were also very tame albeit they were a little intimidating in the water as they're so big!

citygirlswims...only kidding its a sea lion!
shuteye
Id certainly recommend a tour to Isla Espiritu Santos as the scenery is very beautiful and the cerviche lunch the tour company serves you is delicious.

From La Paz I headed to the nearby town of Todos Santos which is where you can find a Hotel called California. Rumour has it that the hotel was the inspiration for the famous song of the same name by The Eagles. I've no idea if this is true but I gladly ate breakfast there and took some pics. 
Hotel California. Bit underwhelming isn't it?
Having been shocked by the prices of everything in Todos Santos - its ridiculously expensive - I jumped back on the bus and went straight to Cabo San Lucas. In hindsight this was a bit of a false economy as it was just the same, if not even more, exorbitant there.

Cabo San Lucas turned out to be nothing like the image I had in my head. I had thought it was a Mexican version of Saint Tropez where the rich & famous of Hollywood head to unwind. The reality was more like Benidorm but sleazier with numerous strip bars, a thousand tacky souvenir shops and a surprising number of dubious looking pharmacies all selling cut price Viagra. The marina was pretty (in a gawdy way), as were the beaches and  The Arch which is a distinctive rock formation there.

El Arco (Arch)
Words fail me.
Nearby San Jose del Cabo turned out to be much prettier albeit quieter - there was literally no one on the beach!
Where is everyone?
Verdict: I hate to say this but I really wish Id given Baja California a miss. It was ridiculously over priced and I had seen much nicer beaches back on the mainland. Baja is also not a true representation of Mexico. The mainland is far more affordable in terms of accommodation and places to eat. My recommendation is go to mainland Mexico!

As Starsky would say: Do it, Do it!

Courtesy of  forums.themustangsource.com

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